Chlebíčky – Slavic Snack Supreme

Delicious Chlebíčeks about to be savoured at the Ema delicatessen in Brno.

Art on Bread

Czech cuisine does not have a reputation for being particularly artistic when it comes to presentation. Many Czech dishes are hearty and delicious, but put presentation second to piling the plate high. The ubiquitous Czech open faced sandwich, the chlebíček, flies in the face of that norm.

If the Czechs demonstrate their artistic side in culinary endeavours anywhere, they do so most visibly when creating chlebíčky. Everything from the bread the snacks are made on to every one of the possible toppings are carefully considered and placed.

The chlebícek is likely to be one of the first items of traditional food that a new arrival in the Czech Republic will encounter. The snack’s popularity as a quick bite on the go and as party food make it a staple product for delicatessens (lahůdky) across the country and display cases full of the snacks are a frequent sight anywhere you go.

A Taste of History

The chlebíček traces its history to 1916 and was created by Prague deli chef, Jan Paukert. From his deli, Paukert served the who’s who of Czech society of the day including the first president of Czechoslovakia, Tomáš Masaryk and opera soprano, Ema Destinnová.

Paukert’s creation was a hit from the start. In his original recipe, Paukert spread potato salad made with homemade mayonnaise on the bread and then topped it with Prague ham, hard boiled egg, Emmental cheese, Hungarian salami and a slice of tomato.

It was designed to be a quick and convenient snack for busy people that they could consume in just a few bites while on the go. It worked back then and it still works today.

Another chlebíček, fresh from the deli to be enjoyed at home.

Chlebíčky, Bottom to Top

The toppings on a chlebíček can be highly variable and limited only by the imagination of the maker. However, there are certain things that help keep a chlebíček traditional in the truest sense. Let’s take a look:

While it is possible to find or order chlebíčky on different types of bread, the proper type of bread is called veka. It’s a white bread that is similar in look to a French baguette.

Before the toppings go on, a base is spread over the slice of bread. There are a few different base spreads: butter, mayonnaise and horseradish cream are typical as are vlašský salát and pochoutkový salát. Often, the toppings will govern which base spread is used.

Traditional topping components include slices of cheese, hard boiled egg and meat along with fresh vegetables like lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and sweet peppers. Typically, you will also see a slice of pickle and sprig of parsley to fully top things off.

Getting Your Hands on Chlebíčky

If you come to the Czech Republic, accessing this snack will be no problem at all; perhaps the biggest issue you may face is which to choose. Every delicatessen and bakery will have a selection, sometimes very wide, and you could find yourself with more choices than you imagined possible.

If you don’t live in the Czech lands, but in an area with a significant Czech ethnic community, you will probably be able to find chlebíčky without to much problem if there is a traditional delicatessen or bakery in the area.

Don’t fear if neither situation applies to you, this link will take you to a website that will give you the recipe for veka bread and all the other information you need to make this Czech treat for yourself. This link will also give you a recipe for veka as well as a good list of topping suggestions and recipes for base spreads.

Further Reading and Learning More

If you’d like to know more about the history of the chlebíček, I recommend checking out this article. Not only will it give you more historical information on the snack, it will also give you some idea of the dizzying array of toppings you might see on one.

Made in the Czech Republic – Modrotisk

Some examples of the print patterns you can find on modrotisk. These are from the Danzinger workshop in Olešnice.

A Rhapsody in Blue

As with all countries, the Czech Republic offers a wealth of traditional souvenir items you can take home with you: Bohemian crystal and other glassware, ceramics, Bohemian garnets, marionette puppets, traditional alcohols, spa wafers and so forth.

Many of those souvenir items are known worldwide, but do you know about modrotisk?

Modrotisk, translated to English as blueprint, is a traditional block printing technique that has been practiced in the Czech lands since the 16th century. In November of 2018, it was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Once a widespread craft practiced in small towns across the country, today there only two modrotisk operations active in the Czech Republic; both are in the eastern reaches of the country and still run by the families that established them generations ago. In Olešnice, north of Brno, you will find the Danzinger family operation which dates to 1816. In Strážnice, in the deep south-east near the border with Slovakia, there is the Joch family workshop that was founded in 1906.

Both the Danzinger and Joch workshops have kept the modrotisk tradition alive through the generations and many of the tools and techniques they use for the dyeing process have changed little down the years. Many of their techniques are, not surprizingly, closely guarded family secrets.

At that, let’s take a closer look at Modrotisk:

A scarf from Danzinger.

A Deep Blue History

At its heart, modrotisk is an indigo dyeing technique. Indigo dyeing is among the oldest of textile colouring techniques, it originated in China around 4,000 years ago and made its way west along the Silk Road which connected Asia to Europe from the 2nd century BC to the 18th century.

In the Czech context, indigo dyeing was traditionally done on linen as flax was a common crop at the time the art form reached the Czechs. Cotton was also a traditional fabric to use for modrotisk.

The white patterns that modrotisk is known for are created through a block resist printing technique where a special water resistant paste is applied to white fabric with carved wood printing blocks before the indigo dye is applied. Finally, the resistant paste is washed out when the dyeing is complete. Many of the printing blocks still in use are very old and have been passed down through the generations.

Modrotisk became a fixture of Czech folk costumes in the late 18th century and experienced a wave of popularity with the public at large through the 19th century. Men’s and women’s clothing with modrotisk motifs became very popular through the 19th century and availability of modrotisk garments became more widespread when synthetic indigo dye was created in the 1880s.

By the early 20th century, the popularity of modrotisk went into decline and a majority of producers ceased operations.

Getting Your Hands on Modrotisk

Many of the souvenir items I mentioned at the start of this article are very traditional Czech items, but can create a headache to take home due to their weight or fragility.

If you’re looking for a souvenir from the Czech Republic that will be light and easy to transport home with you, modrotisk might just be the thing to consider. Don’t worry if your visit doesn’t take you near the two remaining modrotisk workshops in the country, modrotisk is a common item in souvenir shops across the Czech Republic

Another advantage of modrotisk is the flexibility it has for style. You can buy all sorts of items made from the material in a wide variety of print patterns. Tablecloths, wall hangings and aprons are all very common items you can find made from modrotisk as are scarves, shoulder bags and other garments.

If you want the most traditional of modrotisk, you can try to visit the Danzinger or Joch shops personally to have a look. Alternately, you can try to order from the online shops on their respective websites. Both websites are fully in Czech, but respond reasonably well to online translator functions.

This article will go further in depth into the history of modrotisk.

Milotice Chateau – Baroque in the Wine Country

Front facade of the chateau

Pearl of Slovácko 

A bold and well preserved example of Baroque architecture, Milotice chateau and its gardens are nestled in the deep south east of the Moravian regions of the Czech lands.

Standing proud in the lush vineyards of the Slovácko region, Milotice provides a contrasting attraction to the folkloric traditions and wine tourism that the region puts front and centre for visitors. Yet, at the same time, the chateau is not incongruous in the broader picture given the number of noble families that once kept homes in the area.

The current Baroque face of the chateau dates to a reconstruction carried out in the early to mid 1700s, but there’s more than that to the history of this grand old home.

Let’s spend some time with Milotice Chateau:

Rear facade of the chateau.

From One Hand to Another 

As it is with so many old homes of the nobility, the ownership of the chateau at Milotice changed a great deal in its history. The chateau was first built between the 14th and 16th centuries, but it would not be until 1648 that the first long term owners, the Serényi family, would take possession of it and make their mark upon it.

The Serényi tenure at the chateau saw the construction of the chateau gardens, which had been in planning before they took ownership, and an extensive reconstruction of the building from 1719 to 1743. Little has changed in the appearance of the chateau and gardens since the late 18th century and so Milotice has the distinction of being one of the best preserved examples of Baroque architecture and garden design in the Czech Republic.

The last male heir of the Serényi family died in 1811. The management of the chateau was overseen by his daughter and, in turn, grandaughter until 1888. It was then, through marriage, that the chateau came into the ownership of Seilern family. It would remain in their possession until it was seized by the state in 1945 after the end of World War Two.

The chateau has been open to public visitation since 1974.

Chateau library and study.

A Look Inside

There is a single guided tour available of the chateau interiors at Milotice. The tour takes one through the representative halls of the chateau.

The tour and the interiors you will see on it show the chateau as it was in the early 20th century when occupied by the last Seilern count, Ladislav Seilern-Aspang, and his family.

What is presented on this tour is based on a very detailed account of life in the chateau at that time provided by the count’s eldest daughter, Marietta (1918-2008).

On the tour you will see the typical life of the old nobility as it was in the early 20th century; modern conveniences like electricity taking its place alongside the more historical noble trappings such as the collection of items from the Far East in the Oriental salon.

The tour will take you through the well appointed chateau library as well as the dance hall and game room among others. As it typical for tours at Czech chateaus and castles, most of the tours are offered in Czech and you can request a text transcript of the tour in English, German or possibly other languages to help you follow along. If you wish a tour in a language other than Czech, you will need to make a reservation through the chateau website.

A section of the chateau’s supply garden.

A Walk Around the Grounds

The chateau at Milotice has impressive gardens to compliment the building itself.

The gardens at Milotice date to the mid 1600s and are comprised of an ornamental section with fountains and an avenue of trees as well as a supply garden off to one side for the growing of fruits and vegetables to feed the occupants of the chateau.

The gardens are French Baroque in style and include auxiliary buildings such as a pheasant house, hunting pavilion and an artificial Gothic ruin.

Stepping out in Baroque style!

In the early 19th century, the gardens were partially converted to English style. However, these changes were restored to French style in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

If you want to see the chateau gardens in style and really look like you belong there, you can borrow a set of historic clothes and walk around the gardens in them for half and hour or so.

If you wish to wander around in historical clothes, you will need to reserve a time to do so in advance. There is an email address on the chateau website to make a reservation through. However, there is no guarantee of linguistic flexibility, so it is best if you have a command of Czech or can enlist the help of someone who does to make the reservation.

The view towards the chateau from the ornamental gardens.

Paying a Visit and Learning More

As with most state chateaus and castles, Milotice is open to the public from mid April to the end of October every year.

It’s not the most easily accessible of chateaus and it’s best to use a car if you’re travelling to it from any significant distance away.

A good way to visit the chateau would be to spend a few days in the area and incorporate a visit to the chateau during that time.

For example, you could take lodgings in the nearby small city of Kyjov and travel to Milotice on one of the regional buses that make a stop at Milotice a number of times per day. The region also caters quite well to bicycle touring and the chateau is close enough to Kyjov that you could try renting a bicycle to get to the chateau.

This link will take you to the official website of the chateau where you can see what tours are on offer as well as photo galleries of the chateau and gardens:

Official Chateau Website

Kyjovsko – Southeastern Sojourn

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Milotice chateau, a Baroque gem in the Kyjovsko region.

Wine and Wonderment 

Kyjovsko is a small area in the larger Slovácko region that makes up the far south east of the Czech Republic. It takes its name from Kyjov, the main town in the area.

As with the larger Slovácko area it’s part of, Kyjovsko is known for agricultural vistas. Most notable of these are the many vineyards in the region. This is part of the expansive South Moravian wine country, so there are many cellars to visit and sample local wine at. Also in Kyjovsko you will find an area known as Moravské Toskánsko, which translates as Moravian Tuscany. It’s an area of picturesque rolling hills that reminds many people of the Tuscany region of Italy.

Aside of the wine and scenery, Kyjovsko and Slovácko market themselves strongly on folklore and related cultural traditions. It’s not unusual to see wine cellars and other folk architecture decorated with local folk art motifs.

In August of 2020, we spent a few days in Kyjovsko. Here’s a small taste of what you can find there:

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Section of Kyjov’s main square.

Day 1: Arriving in Kyjov 

We travelled to Kyjov from Brno by train. It was a direct train ride of a little more than an hour.

Once settled into our hotel, we took a walk around the town to get a feel for the place. Kyjov is a decidedly non-touristy place with a relaxed atmosphere.

The town dates to the early 1100s and has a population of around 11,000 people. It’s a very walkable town and the local tourist information office can provide you with a map of the town’s sites so you can take your own self-guided tour.

Most things in Kyjov seemed to close between 19:00 and 20:00, so the town won’t give you much of a nightlife. However, with both a train station and a coach bus terminal, it is a regional transportation hub and makes a good base for trips around the area.

As Kyjov is a smaller town and we communicated mostly in Czech, it’s difficult to say how much linguistic flexibility you’ll find there if you don’t speak Czech. You can find information in the tourist information office in a variety of languages and one of the staff members who assisted us spoke quite good English.

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Inside the Templar Cellars in Čejkovice.

Day 2: Čejkovice

Our first full day in the region saw us visiting the village of Čejkovice, to the south west of Kyjov.

Čejkovice is most well known as the home of the Templar cellars-Templářské sklepy. While the modern winery today has existed in its current form since 1992, it takes its name from the extensive winery and cellars the Knights Templar built when they were active in the area in the early to mid 1200s.

It’s possible to take a tour of the cellars and sample some wine if you’d like. Regular tours in Czech take place at pre determined times during the day and don’t require a reservation to join in. Tours in English or German can be arranged, but require a reservation.

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Some of the vineyards local to Čejkovice.

Another point of interest in Čejkovice is the Czech operations of the Sonnentor herb and spice company. Sonnentor was founded in Austria in 1988 and set up operations in the Czech Republic in 1992.

At the Sonnentor location in Čejkovice you can tour the facility, buy gifts at the well stocked giftshop as well as enjoy a cup of their own tea in their café.

You can also get a good view around the area of Čejkovice from the viewing tower that’s part of the Sonnentor building.

We travelled to Čejkovice by bus from Kyjov. It’s not a direct bus and required a transfer to another bus in the village of Čejč, a bit north of Čejkovice.

As Čejkovice is a small village, a car may be a better way of accessing it depending on where you’re travelling from.

Bicycle tourism is strongly promoted in this area of the country, so that could be another option open to you for accessing the village depending on where you’re travelling from and your level of fitness.

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Restaurant and viewing tower at Bukovanský Mlýn.

Day 3: Windmills and Wellness 

We spent the morning of our third day in the village of Bukovany, a bit north of Kyjov.

Bukovany is a small village and home to the Bukovanský mlýn (Bukovany mill) hotel and viewing tower.

The viewing tower is modelled after a historic windmill. Inside, you will find a gift shop and a small museum. From the viewing deck at the top, you can see a good distance in all directions. The weather wasn’t great when we visited, but the hotel’s website claims that you can see for more than 100 kilometres on a clear day.

While we didn’t stay to have lunch at the retaurant there, their website says they specialise in traditional cuisine from the Slovácko region.

We travelled to Bukovany by direct bus from Kyjov. The bus trip is less than half an hour, but there is an extra 10 to 15 minutes of walking from the bus stop to the mill.

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Tubs of hops infused water just waiting to be enjoyed.

The afternoon of our third day was spent enjoying our hotel’s wellness facilities.

Our hotel was Kyjvoský pivovar; a hotel, microbrewery and wellness centre all in one. Their beer spa is the heart of their wellness services and we spent about an hour soaking in tubs of hops infused water and enjoying a pint of the hotel’s own beer straight from a tap between the lovely wooden tubs.

Among its benefits, the hops infused water had nerve calming qualities. Given the slow motion train wreck that 2020 has been for most everyone so far, we weren’t going to say no to a bit of nerve calming.

We relaxed a bit on our hotel room after that and then enjoyed an early evening walk around Kyjov.

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At Milotice chateau in some Baroque threads.

Day 4: Renting Royalty 

Our final day in Kyjovsko included a trip to the Baroque chateau in Milotice, a short bus ride south of Kyjov.

Mainly, we went there to partake in the chateau’s offer to rent historic style clothing and walk around the chateau gardens and grounds.

It was a good bit of fun walking around in late Baroque style clothes for half an hour and looking like we owned the place.

If you wish to visit Milotice and rent historical clothes, you will need to make a reservation for the clothes ahead of time through the chateau website.

Even if walking around in vintage attire isn’t for you, a visit to this chateau should certainly go on your itinerary if you’re at all interested in Baroque or Rococo styles and are travelling to the Kyjovsko area.

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Dishes and cups decorated with folk motifs typical to the Kyjovsko and Slovácko regions on display at Bukovanský mlýn.

Paying a Visit and Learning More 

If you are travelling from Brno, Kyjov is not difficult to reach by train. With a respectable selection of accomodation for the town’s size, as well as bus and train stations along with places to rent bicycles, Kyjov is a good place to use as your base if you are visiting the area.

Tourism in Kyjovsko and the larger Slovácko region is very closely tied to the area’s viticultural and folk heritage. The region is full of vineyards and dotted with cellars where you can try wine from many regional wineries.

The folk art, costumes and traditions of Kyjovsko and the wider Slovácko region are some of the most distinctive and recognised in the Czech Republic. Events to showcase these aspects of regional culture are not unusual in the region.

Bicycle tourism is strongly promoted through the region and there are a number of well established and maintained cycling trails. If cycling is a method you’d like to try for seeing the area, I would recommend a good sunscreen and insect repellent specified against ticks as “must have” items for you. Summers can be hot and sunny and tick borne encephalitis is a serious health concern for anyone going into nature or rural areas in this part of Europe.

To take full advantage of the viticultural aspect of the area, planning your trip for late summer or early autumn might be best. September is traditionally the time of wine festivals across the South Moravian wine growing regions and is a good opportunity to try the wine and see a lot of regional folk traditions in action at the same time.

This link will take you to the official website of Kyjov. There you will find a lot of information about what you can do in Kyjov and the surrounding area:

Official Kyjov website