Velvet Revolution, Prague, 1989 — (photo: Peter Turnley, public domain)
Students and Solidarity
November 17 is a national holiday in the Czech Republic commemorating two student-led protests against tyranny. The first, in 1939, was a demonstration against the German occupation that followed the killing of a Czech student by German troops.
Fifty years later, on the same date in 1989, Czech students once again protested tyranny—this time against the Communist regime—sparking the Velvet Revolution. The date’s current national holiday status is more closely associated with the 1989 events.
November 17, 1939
On this day, the dormitories of Prague’s Charles University were stormed by Nazi forces following student-led protests against the German occupation of Czechoslovakia. Nine students identified as ringleaders were executed without trial.
More than 1,000 others who participated in the protests were sent to concentration camps, and all Czech universities and colleges were closed for three years.
A detailed account of those events can be found here:
Students in Czechoslovakia once again rose against oppression in 1989—this time against Communist rule. After decades of authoritarian control, the decline of the Eastern Bloc led to widespread unrest and demonstrations throughout Central and Eastern Europe. In Czechoslovakia, the November 1989 protests culminated in the fall of the Communist regime.
New political parties were formed and legalized, the Communist Party was stripped of its powers, and Václav Havel (1936–2011) was appointed president. Thousands of political prisoners were granted amnesty. These events became known as the Velvet Revolution.
For many Czechs, November 17 is simply a public holiday. However, those who wish to commemorate the day can attend various events in the week leading up to it, collectively known as Freedom Week. The largest celebrations take place on Prague’s Národní třída, a major site of the 1989 protests.
Freedom Week is organized by the non-profit group — Díky, Že Můžem(Thanks that we can). Their flagship event in Prague, Korzo Národní, offers a wide range of activities in both Czech and English.
Smaller Freedom Week events may also be found in other locations across the country.
The Church of the Assumption of Mary, located on Lake Bled.
South Slavic Splendour
Towards the end of October 2025, we spent a week in Slovenia. This article offers an example of what you can do in this small but vibrant country in five days.
It was our first visit, and Slovenia left an excellent impression on us. We’d happily return to see more. Although the country covers only 20,271 square kilometres (7,827 square miles), there’s an incredible amount packed into that small area. From a tourism perspective, Slovenia truly is the definition of good things coming in small packages.
Our hotel was in the capital, Ljubljana, and our trip was a mix of business and pleasure. For the first couple of days, my girlfriend, Jana, attended business meetings, which gave me the opportunity to visit a few places she wasn’t particularly interested in. By mid-week, her meetings were done, and we were officially on holiday together.
Excluding travel days, we had five full days to explore. Here’s what we managed to do in that time:
The Una class submarine is an example of the former Yugoslavia’s ability to develop its own military gear.
Day One: The Founding of a Nation
After breakfast at our hotel, I made my way to Ljubljana’s train station and boarded a train for Pivka — a small town about an hour and a half southwest of the capital.
My destination was the Military History Park (Park vojaške zgodovine). The park features a well-organized collection of military vehicles and artefacts spanning from the Second World War to Slovenia’s independence in 1991.
More than just a military museum, the park offers an engaging way to learn about the Yugoslav resistance during the war, the rise and fall of Yugoslavia through the Cold War, and the emergence of modern Slovenia after its dissolution. One of the most fascinating exhibits is a walk-through timeline that illustrates these events in context.
The park also presents the Non-Aligned Movement, a nuanced element of the Cold War that Yugoslavia helped pioneer. This movement provided countries seeking self-determination with an alternative to strict alignment with either the Eastern or Western Blocs — offering greater flexibility in trade and development.
The French designed Gazelle helicopter is an example of western technology that Yugoslavia could access due to its non-aligned stance. Many Gazelles were license built in Yugoslavia.
The collection includes equipment from both sides of the Iron Curtain, along with a significant amount designed and built in Yugoslavia itself. The main complex — consisting of three display pavilions, a central building, and an outdoor area — easily warrants two or three hours of exploration.
A walking trail also leads to remnants of the Alpine Wall, a line of fortifications built by Italy before the Second World War. According to the park’s website, the walk takes about 40 minutes, but I didn’t have time to include it in my visit before catching my return train to Ljubljana.
That evening, at Ljubljana Castle, We attended an informal meet-and-greet connected to Jana’s meetings. The event provided a stunning nighttime view of the capital and a chance to sample some very good Slovenian wine.
If you’re a wine lover, I highly recommend trying a glass or two of the local varieties while in Slovenia.
Ljubljana Castle seen from the city centre.
Day Two: Ljubljana Walkabout
After breakfast, I accompanied Jana to her conference venue and joined a guided walking tour of Ljubljana arranged for delegates’ partners. The two-hour, 6.5-kilometre walk was leisurely, as the city is mostly flat.
Our guide was knowledgeable and offered great insights into the city’s history and architecture. The historic centre features impressive Baroque and Secessionist buildings. The Baroque character stems from a reconstruction following a 1511 earthquake, while the Secessionist style developed after another major quake in 1895.
Viewing the Ljubljanica river enbankments and Triple Bridge, both the work of Jože Plečnik.
Much of Ljubljana’s Secessionist architecture is credited to local architect Jože Plečnik (1872–1957), whose influence on the city has been compared to that of Antoni Gaudí on Barcelona. Notable Plečnik works include the Ljubljanica river embankments, the Triple Bridge, the Ljubljana Central Market, the National and University Library, and Žale Central Cemetery.
Plečnik also left his mark in Prague and Vienna. Most notably serving as chief architect for the renovation of Prague Castle from 1920 to 1934. Another of his notable works in Prague is the imposing Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord in the city’s Vinohrady district.
The Cooperative Business Bank building, designed by Ivan and Helena Vurnik.
Another highlight of Ljubljana’s Secessionist style is the Cooperative Business Bank, designed by Plečnik’s contemporary Ivan Vurnik (1884–1971). While Plečnik adhered strictly to the style’s principles, Vurnik experimented more, blending Secessionist form with Slovenian folk motifs. Together with his wife, Helena (1882–1962), he designed the bank building in 1921. Its façade, painted in Slovenia’s national colours and patterned with folk-inspired designs, makes it one of the city’s most striking landmarks.
Our guide also introduced us to remnants of Emona, the Roman settlement that stood where Ljubljana is today. Founded around 50 BC, Emona grew from a military outpost into a town of about 5,000 to 6,000 residents before being destroyed in 452 AD. Traces of the ancient city remain scattered across modern Ljubljana.
Remnants of the walls of Emona
The walking tour ended around lunchtime, after which I returned to the hotel for a rest and a light meal. Later, I revisited several sites from the tour, picked up postcards at the tourist information office, and explored a few spots we hadn’t covered.
Ljubljana is compact, flat, and easy to navigate — ideal for walking or exploring via the small electric tourist train that circulates through the city centre.
Distinctive pletna boats waiting to ferry tourists across the lake to Bled Island.
Day Three: Lake Bled
By the third day, Jana’s meetings were finished, so we enjoyed a slow morning before joining a bus excursion to Lake Bled, one of Slovenia’s most famous destinations.
Located in the northwest of the country, it took our bus about 40 minutes to reach Bled from Ljubljana. I was immediately struck by the clarity of the lake water and pristine environment. For as popular as the area is, it certainly does not bear the scars of being overappreciated.
We boarded traditional pletna boats to reach Bled Island, home to the picturesque Church of the Assumption of Mary. After exploring the island for about half an hour, we continued to Bled Castle, perched on the opposite shore. Said to be Slovenia’s oldest castle, it now serves as a museum and vantage point with spectacular views of the lake, island, and Alps beyond.
Though our group’s schedule was tight, I would have loved to spend more time wandering the lakeside and surrounding trails before returning to Ljubljana for a formal dinner that evening.
The electric tourist train that you can use to tour the centre.
Day Four: Lazy in Ljubljana
Knowing our final full day would be a demanding one, we took this day slowly.
We strolled from our hotel to the city centre, browsed a few souvenir shops, and boarded the small tourist train for a one-hour sightseeing circuit. Tickets cost €12 per adult and include disposable earphones for recorded commentary in about 20 languages, accompanied by a video presentation.
The train makes a couple of stops — including Ljubljana Castle — where passengers can disembark, explore independently, and rejoin a later train.
A small word of caution: the train’s entryways are narrow and legroom is limited. If you’re tall or broad-shouldered, you might prefer to explore on foot instead.
Predjama Castle
Day Five: Caves and Castles
On our last full day, we travelled 40 minutes southwest of Ljubljana with a small group to visit Postojna Cave Park, which includes Pojstona Cave and Predjama Castle.
We began at Predjama Castle, dramatically built into a mountainside — an architectural marvel and a formidable medieval fortress. The self-guided tour provides audio commentary in multiple languages via a handheld device.
The castle’s interior is practical and austere, reflecting its defensive purpose. Constant moisture seeps through the rock, so it’s easy to see why luxuries would not have lasted here. A natural shaft, enlarged in the 15th century, served as a secret passage for supplies during sieges. From the watchtower, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the valley below.
Tips for visiting Predjama Castle:
Expect many staircases; it is not accessible for visitors with mobility challenges.
Surfaces can be wet and slippery — sturdy shoes with good grip are essential.
A view of the Postojna Cave
After the castle, we made our way to the Postojna Cave, the second largest cave system in the country. The first stage of the cave tour is done by a small train and lasts for 15 to 20 minutes. It takes you through some very nice areas and prepares you for the more spectacular parts to come.
The next part of the tour a guided walk that follows a path of about 1.5 kilometres through some truly amazing rock formations.
If you’re lucky, you might spot an olm — a blind salamander endemic to the region. While the path is paved and treated for traction, we found the inclines a bit more strenuous than the website’s “easy” rating suggested.
Practical advice:
The cave maintains a steady temperature of 10 °C (50 °F), so warm clothing and good shoes are recommended.
Visitors with mobility needs should review accessibility details on the official website carefully, as there are specific requirements for wheelchair access.
Here be dragons! The dragon is the symbol of Ljubljana. This is one of four dragons that guard Dragon Bridge in the city centre.
Visiting Slovenia and Learning More
This trip was our first visit to Slovenia, and I certainly hope to visit again.
Getting there depends on your starting point. The country is accessible by air, land, and sea. Travelling from Brno, Czech Republic, rail was the most practical option for us. We took a Czech Rail train from Brno, transferring to a Slovenian Rail train in Graz, Austria. The journey took about eight hours and was comfortable and stress-free.
To learn more about the destinations mentioned here, the following websites are helpful resources:
Czechs have a rich history in aviation that dates back almost to the dawn of powered flight. Jan Kašpar (1883–1927) was one of the Czech pioneers of aviation and is widely recognized as the first Czech to fly.
Kašpar was born into a wealthy family in Pardubice. His family owned the Hotel Veselka, a well-known local establishment that served as a social hub in the city prior to the Second World War. Ownership of the hotel changed hands in the early 1920s. During the Second World War, the building became an operational centre for the Czech resistance.
German forces eventually seized the building and repurposed it. After the war, it was converted into an office block. Ultimately, it was demolished in the early 1970s due to extensive structural degradation.
Jan Kašpar had little interest in the hotel business. He enjoyed many sports and developed a keen interest in technology from an early age. He trained as a mechanical engineer at the Czech Technical University in Prague and later continued his studies in Germany, specializing in aircraft engine design.
After returning from Germany, Kašpar worked for Laurin & Klement—the predecessor of Škoda Auto. He left this position to pursue his passion for aviation and his dream of building his own aircraft.
Kašpar’s JK Blériot XI on display at the National Technical Museum in Prague.
A False Start and a French Connection
By 1909, Kašpar had constructed his first aircraft. Due largely to his inexperience as a pilot and the aircraft’s under-powered engine, he was unable to get it airborne.
1909 was also the year that Louis Blériot made his historic flight across the English Channel. Upon hearing of Blériot’s achievement, Kašpar travelled to France and purchased a Blériot XI—similar to the one Blériot had used.
On April 16, 1910, Kašpar took off in his Blériot XI, becoming the first Czech to fly an airplane. However, he aspired to achieve more.
On May 13, 1911, Kašpar flew from Pardubice to the Velká Chuchle district of Prague. The flight lasted 92 minutes and covered 121 kilometres. It was the first long-distance flight not only over Czech territory but also within the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This achievement made Kašpar a household name and captured the imagination of the public.
On July 12, 1911, he flew the same aircraft to Kroměříž, landing to the applause of 15,000 spectators who had paid to witness the event.
The aircraft he used for these flights was a modified version of the Blériot XI that he had built himself. Powered by a Daimler four-cylinder engine, he named it the JK Blériot XI—including his initials to distinguish it from the factory-standard model.
In 1913, Kašpar donated the JK Blériot XI to the National Technical Museum in Prague. Today, it is displayed prominently in the museum’s transportation collection.
Jan Kašpar’s statue in Pardubice.
War and Decline
Despite the fame brought by his flights, Kašpar’s flying career was brief. His last public flight occurred in July 1912.
In 1913, following the death of his father—a strong supporter of his aviation work—Kašpar was forced to abandon flying to manage the family estate. His father’s passing affected him deeply.
During the First World War, he worked as an aircraft technician and later briefly served in the Ministry of Public Works.
Kašpar’s later years were marked by hardship. He struggled with both the family business and a timber trading enterprise he launched after the war. Financial ruin and physical and mental health issues plagued him.
He died in hospital on March 2, 1927. The exact circumstances of his death remain a topic of debate.
Hospital records indicate that he died of pneumonia, possibly linked to long-term exposure to engine exhaust. This is plausible given his involvement in motorsport prior to his flying career.
Other sources suggest that he took his own life. According to some of these accounts, he was taken to the hospital after his sister found him unconscious with his flying scarf soaked with gasoline nearby. Given his dire financial and personal circumstances, this theory is also plausible.
The truth likely lies somewhere in between.
Regardless, Kašpar received a full religious funeral—a rite that would not have been granted had suicide been the official cause of death. He is buried in Pardubice Central Cemetery.
A replica Blériot XI performing at the annual Aviatická Pouť airshow in Pardubice.
Jan Kašpar’s Legacy
Jan Kašpar is widely regarded as the father of Czech aviation, and Pardubice is often referred to as its cradle.
He is considered a hometown hero in Pardubice. A statue commemorating him stands near the former site of Hotel Veselka. The city’s airport terminal bears his name, and a small aviation museum also honours him. As of 2025, the museum is temporarily closed pending relocation to the Kunětice airport near Pardubice.
Each year, the city hosts an air show called Aviatická Pouť, typically held in late May or early June to coincide with the anniversary of Kašpar’s 1911 flight from Pardubice to Prague.
Nationally, his legacy is evident in the aviation enthusiasm his early achievements inspired, laying the foundation for the country’s rich aviation heritage.
Another view of the JK Blériot XI on display at the National Technical Museum in Prague.
Further Reading
Information about Jan Kašpar is limited outside the Czech language, and many available sources contain conflicting or inaccurate details.
The following articles are all reasonably reliable and respond well to online translators:
Beyond Prague 